Crescent City, California

I enjoyed spending a couple days in Crescent City, even if I did sleep in a storage room at the bar!  Rick is really nice and easy going, and he does some excellent grilling!  After that I headed for Crescent City.

Rick Lelo at Rowdy Creek Yacht Club, in Smith River, CA.

When I got there, my Mom offered to pay for a couple nights motel, so I happily agreed and she made reservations.  Then a couple hrs later, my cousin Michelle offered to pay for a couple nights at a motel, too, but I told her Mom already had paid for this stay.  I was so amazed at both of their generosity!  Staying at a motel is such a luxury for me!  So I settled in for the weekend and took it easy.  I totally enjoyed going to Ocean World, and I wanted to see the lighthouse, but it was too foggy to see it.



Me at Ocean World, in Crescent City, CA.



Riding the Skunk Train, in Fort Bragg, CA

Then on monday I headed out of Crescent City, and that's where the adventure began!  Quite a few locals told me that I should take a shuttle bus to Arcata, because up ahead the road was windy and curvy and went over a mountain pass, and that there was no shoulder on the road and no room for me.  So that was a fairly easy decision for me -- I don't like mountain passes or shoulder-less roads, so I opted for the shuttle to Arcata.  I was at the bus stop at 7am and forked out my $25, and was on my merry way, heading to Arcata about 70 miles away.  The shuttle bus dropped us off at the main bus terminal in Arcata, where you can connect with several other busses, including Greyhound.  During the drive to Arcata, I noticed the highway turned into a 4 lane, divided highway, and I also spotted several signs that said "Pedestrians Prohibited".  So when I got to the bus stop, I asked if it was ok for me to walk on the highway, and they said absolutely not.  The lady said that I needed to get on the bus right out the door and do it now,  because it was ready to leave.  She asked the driver to wait, and in a rushed blur, took my credit card, handed me a ticket, and said "go now!"  I had no idea what I was doing or where I was going, but I went!  My cart got shoved in the luggage area under the bus, and I was on my way to I-don't-know-where.  After a few miles when my heart quit pounding, I checked out my ticket and found out that I had just paid $50 to get to Ukiah and that I'd be there at 2:45pm.  Well.  When I arrived there, it was a blistering 104 degrees out, and I called the ph# taped on the side of the bus stop to find out how I could get to Hwy 1 on the coast.  The lady told me to catch the #20 bus at 4:00.  I asked her if it was right here at this stop, and she said no, that I needed to get to the Pear Tree Center by 4.  Having no idea where that was, I went into the grocery store to cool off and get some directions.  That lady said it was 2 miles away, and told me how to get there.  Two miles in 104 degrees!  I wasn't sure if I'd make it or not.  The walk was right downtown, and I stopped for several seconds in every piece of shaded ground that I crossed.  Frantic that I might not find this place, and after asking several more people, I finally found it with 10 minutes to spare.  There were several other people waiting around, and they didn't think there would be any problem loading my cart on the bus.  I was sure hoping the bus driver would let me.  Generally, as long as the bus is handicap accessable, then there's room for my cart.  The bus finally pulled up, and the driver was pretty skeptical at first, but he went ahead and let me load the cart.  The mini-size shuttle bus was cram packed with people and it was stifling hot inside the bus, and my cart and I were squished in like sardines in the very back seat of the bus, while the radio was blaring mexican music and I wondered if this moment was really happening.  We pulled away from the parking lot and I was on my way.  The drive across the windy, curvy, mountain range was rather wild, and quite exciting.  Eventually we hit cooler weather and all the windows were soon open.  Finally I felt like I could breathe again.  By the time I got into Fort Bragg at 6pm, I was about 250 miles farther than I was this morning, and I was stressed and exhausted!  I didn't care what a motel would cost me for that night, I just knew I needed to calm down and unwind! 

The next day I took the luxury of going on a 4 hr long train ride into the beautiful California Redwoods.  The day turned out perfect with clear blue sky and 65 degrees, and the ride on the Skunk Train was very enjoyable.  According to the locals, I'm in for the best part of my trip, walking along Hwy 1 on the California Coast, so I'm really looking forward to that.

Bandon with Michelle



Nicole & Brian, at www.FarWesthostel.com

 I totally enjoyed staying at Brian & Nicoles hostel in Port Orford, OR.  While there, I also met up with Beck, and she offered me the use of her pickup to drive around in while she was at work.  I had a great time checking out the areas around Port Orford!  Also while I was there, my cousin Michelle decided to drive down and spend the weekend with me.  She booked a motel in Bandon, and came down to Port Orford to get me and take me back north.  We had a great 2 days in Bandon, even though it was really foggy!  I always enjoy spending time with Michelle, and was thrilled to see her again.  Some of my foggy beach pics turned out almost eerie!

Beck and her pickup




 

On Sunday, Michelle took me back down the road and then she headed back north to Lebanon.  I made my way into Harris Beach State Park, by Brookings.  This park was one of the nicest I've stayed at, and I was pleasantly surprised to see that they even had laundry facilities.  A few days ago I received an email from Dannie who lives in Brookings, and she had offered to meet up with me for coffee.  So when I got settled in at the park, I called her up and told her I was there.  Come to find out, she works at the park, and she'd be in to work on Monday morning.  I decided I'd stay put for a day, and we'd get together then.  The next morning she met up with me at 8am and handed me a sausage & cheese biscuit and a hot cup of coffee from McDonalds.  What a pleasant surprise!  We visited for a bit before she needed to check in to work, and decided to meet again during her break time.  Dannie was a permanent rv'er for about 12 years, and I enjoyed hearing about her travels and how she worked at different places -- especially because that's exactly what I want to do after this trip.  I totally enjoyed spending her break times and lunch time with her!

My cousin Jeff lives in Roseburg, OR but has been temporarily working in Brookings, so I texted him and asked if we could get together.  He suggested we go out to eat that evening, so he swung by and we went down to the dock and had fish & chips.  It was great to see him again, too.

After that I headed down the road the next day.  I made it to the California State Line, and then only walked a couple miles more to Kamph Memorial Park, where I pitched a tent for the night.  I've seen plenty of parks that were better than this one, but I was still glad to have a spot.  Plus it was right on the beach, and i got some great sunset pictures that night! 

Bandon, OR

Port Orford, OR

Port Orford, OR



From there I headed to Smith River the next day.  It was only 6 miles away, but it seemed like a really long 6 miles.  It was a cloudless, sunny day, and the sun was hot beating down on me.  During the whole 6 miles, there were only 2 spots on the road where there was any shade -- and I stood in those 2 spots for a good 20 minutes each.  I knew my arms and face were turning really red, but wasn't sure how much until I got into town.  I stopped at the tavern right next to the grocery store, and the first thing Rick said to me is "you are really red!"  He then handed me a cold beer, and we started talking.  I was exhausted, and was glad to be sitting in a cool, shaded area.  After visiting for awhile, Rick offered to let me stay there for a couple nights and do some cleaning for him, and that he'd pay me for it.  He showed me a large storage room with a bed and a bathroom in it, and i said sure, that I'd stay put for a day or two.  So I did some cleaning and vacuuming for him, then in the evening it felt good to kick back.  The next day he drove me back to Brookings and dropped me and a ton of dirty laundry off at the laundromat.  6 loads and 3 hrs later, he picked me back up and took care of a few more errands before heading back to Smith River.  He paid me for my work, and the next day I was heading for Crescent City.

Michelle, sending me down the road!

Bullards Beach State Park

Cape Blanco Lighthouse

I left North Bend and headed for Coos Bay 3 miles away, thinking I'd just probably find a spot on the north end of town and not really leave town.  Well, I did find a spot on the north end of town.  There's an RV park there, and when I asked if I could camp overnight there, the owner said no, that no tenters are allowed.  The motel nearby was over $100, so I just kept walking.  I headed out of town, and kept going.....and going....and going.  Fourteen miles later, I spotted a lake, with a gravel road that ran alongside of it, and several houses.  I headed down that gravel road, hoping to find an inconspicuous spot to pitch my tent.  The sun was still out, and it was nice by the lake, so I decided to get out my chair and just sit for a spell, to see if anyone would drive by.  Sure enough, awhile later, Scott drove by.  I asked him who owned the property and if it'd be ok if I put my tent up overnight.  Scott said that his Dad owned the property, and that he was sure it'd be fine if I camped out there.  We visited for a bit longer, and he drove off.

A few minutes later, while I was setting my tent up, Scott came back.  He said he had to go to Bandon and get some gas, and why don't I just let him take me there?  I mentioned that I was hoping to get to Bullards Beach State Park just before Bandon, and he said fine.  So I put my tent away, and he drove me 10 miles to the park.  I totally enjoyed visiting with Scott, especially when he said that he's never, ever picked up a stranger or given anybody a ride before.  So of course my next question was "Then why me?"  He said he didn't think I looked like an axe murderer to him, and he knew I could probably find a more comfortable place to pitch a tent than on a gravel road.  He went on to say that he's not real keen about talking to strangers -- again, I was quite amused! -- and that he was visiting with his pastor, who said he loves to talk to strangers so he can talk about his faith.  I guess Scott mulled over that, and I was his first recipient.  I mentioned to Scott that I'm also carrying Bibles with me to give to others, and he asked me if he could have one.  So when we got to the park, I gave Scott a Bible and he gave me a hug.  And as I set up my tent in a nice spot at Bullards Beach State Park, all I could think of was God Bless my friend Scott.

I have a huge blister on my foot, and after getting situated and taking a hot shower, I felt much better.  It was around 9pm, and I was glad to be safe and warm and settled in. 

Coquille River Lighthouse

Camping out at Bullards Beach State Park

I spent the next day taking it easy at the park, and enjoyed visiting with other campers.  I took a walk to the beach, and enjoyed a day off.  I had contacted Brian through couchsurfing, who owns a hostel in Port Orford, and when I contacted him, he emailed me back and said I could stay at their house in Bandon, and also their hostel in Port Orford.  So that evening I texted him and said I was at the park and that I'd be in Bandon in the morning.  He immediately called me and said that they live a mile away from the park and that I could stay with them if I'd like.  I said I was already settled in, and he told me they were cooking some fresh crab and that he'd bring me some.  A bit later, Brian pulled up to the park gate and handed me a bag full of cooked crab.  I headed back to my camping area and chowed down on some wonderful just caught, just cooked crab.  Life is good.

North Bend, Oregon

I left Reedsport on a beautiful, sunny day.  It was windy out, but that felt good.  My first mile and a half went up another steep hill.  I was glad to finally get to the top, where there was a pull-out area with a spectacular view that included the Umpqua River Lighthouse.  The lighthouse was built in 1890 and was illuminated in 1894.

Having a mountain top experience!

From there I only walked a few more miles and found an RV park in Winchester Bay, where I set up my tent for the night.  I had a bite to eat in Winchester Bay, and took it easy that evening.  It was a pleasant day all around.  I'm really enjoying the fact that summer on the coast is fairly cool -- only in the 60's -- which is really nice for walking in.  I prefer a cloudy, overcast day to a bright, sunny day, but am happy that the temp has stayed fairly low.

The next day I walked 9 miles to William M Tugman State Park, just north of Lakeside.  I like staying at the state parks, because it only costs hikers and bikers $5.00 a night.  Most state parks have a specific area for tenters, usually close to all the hub, but the tent area in this park was quite remote, and rather seperated from everyone else.  And I was the only tenter there!  I was sent the opposite direction of everyone else, down a path, and out in the boonies!  Even though I really wasn't that far away, I felt really isolated and alone!  And then, to top it off, right near my tent site was a sign posted saying that a bear was spotted in that area on May 11th!  Granted, that was a few days ago, but still.... I made sure my 6 angels were around my tent that night!

Umpqua River Lighthouse

Unpqua River Lighthouse

Umpqua River Lighthouse

McCullough Bridge to North Bend, OR

McCullough Bridge to North Bend, OR

McCullough Bridge to North Bend, OR

I headed out from the state park around 8am, had breakfast in town, and then hit the road.  It was a cool, overcast day -- perfect for walking.  I walked 13 miles and crossed over the McCullough Bridge into North Bend.  Just barely a quarter from the bridge was the Itty Bitty Inn, where I stopped for the night.  They gave me an itty bitty price and the hot shower and comfy bed felt wonderful.

The Oregon Coast

Oregon Dunes

On July 14th, my friend Tom and I headed for the Oregon Coast, where we spent some time sight-seeing and enjoying the day.  Later on, he took me over to South Beach State Park, where I pitched my tent and settled in for the evening.  I've already walked down the entire Oregon Coast once before, but it won't hurt my feelings at all to do it again.  That evening it started raining.

The next day around 10am, things started to dry out and I packed up and walked 10 miles to Seal Rock.  There's an RV park there, so I pulled in and payed $24 to pitch a tent there.  Twenty four dollars seemed like a lot to me, to pay for sleeping on the ground, but the shower felt good and the water was hot.  That night it started to rain again.

On Tuesday I walked an easy 5 miles in the rain and fog to Waldport.  On my first walk down the Oregon Coast, I met Quirina in Waldport through the Lions Club.  We've kept in touch ever since, and I've mailed her a Christmas card every year.  So when I walked past her store a couple miles north of Waldport, I pulled inside to say hi.  In place of her art gallery was a real estate company, so I walked up to the desk and asked for Quirina.  The lady gave me a confused look, and said she hasn't been there in 7 years.  I mumbled that I'd just walk into town then and call her, and the receptionist offered to call her from there.  That made me a little bit nervous, because even though I remember her doesn't guarantee that she'll remember me. When the receptionist told Quirina who I was, she remembered me at once and they handed me the phone.  Quirina gave me directions to her house in Waldport, and I was on my way.  It was great to see her again, and I soon realized that it was quite by luck that I reached her at all!  She is a very active, busy person!  She showed me my room, the bathroom and the laundry room, and then she headed out to do errands while I stayed put and did a few of my own.  She was in and out several times during the day, and we had a great visit.

In Florence, it was still foggy and raining.  I spent a day there doing some sight-seeing and walking around town.  The next day I headed 9 miles to Carter Lake Campground.  Finally, a nice, sunny, dry day!  Halfway there, I stopped at a dune buggy place and went on a dune buggy ride on one of their monster-size dune buggys!  It was AWESOME!!  I had a blast!!  I totally enjoyed that!  That night, around 10pm at the campground, a really big thunder and lightening storm rolled in.  And it was only then that I realized I didn't have a clue as to what to do during an electric storm in a tent!  So I sat there, in the dark, on my sleeping bag and sleeping pad, praying fervently and wondering when the storm would pass on by.  It seemed to last forever, but finally moved on.  Then it poured down rain all night long.



Camping out at Carter Lake Campground



Camping out at Tahkenitch Landing

Tahkenitch Landing

Oregon Dunes

Oregon Dunes

Oregon Dunes

Florence, Oregon

Oregon Dunes

Oregon Dunes



Florence, OR

Florence, OR

Florence, OR

Florence, OR

Florence, OR

Florence, OR

Q

Waldport bridge on a foggy day

S

The rain finally quit the next morning, and from Carter Lake Campground I walked an easy 5 miles to Tahkenitch Campground.  I have a nasty BIG blister on my right foot, and I'll be losing a toenail on my left foot, so these easy days are appreciated.  I pitched a tent there close to the lake and enjoyed the afternoon.  It turned out to be a nice, sunny day.

I left Tahkenitch Campground and headed for the city of Reedsport.  On the coast, there's a free magazine that documents every mile-by-mile guide of the Oregon Coast.  As I was looking at the area I'd be walking today, I wondered why there weren't any businesses, parks, campgrounds or places noted for 6 miles.  Then I walked it and found out.  I went 3 miles up a mountain, and 3 miles down it.  I didn't think I was ever going to find the top of that hill.  When I walk, I usually walk on the left side of the road.  But walking down the Oregon Coast, the south-bound lane has a much larger shoulder than the skimpy shoulder on the north bound side.  I think that's because there are many, many bicyclists who ride from north to south down the Oregon Coast.  So because of that, I've been walking on the right side of the road, because the shoulder is a lot bigger and better.  Another reason is because all the pull-outs and rest areas and view points are on that side of the road too, so rather than crossing the highway a hundred times a day, I just stay on that side.  But it does make me nervous, because I can hear but not see who's coming up behind me.  Another thing I've noticed, is that on the curves -- and this is indeed a windy, curvy road -- nowadays they really bank the curves up, like on a race track.  So when I'm walking on the wrong side of the road, and I'm down in the bowl of one of those curves, I'm not kidding you, I'm praying for my lost soul!  But -- whew! -- so far, I'm glad to say, I've made it.

After my 6-mile mountain walk, I came to the little town of Gardiner.  I was hot and tired, and after 3 days of protein bars, I was hungry for something else.  I headed into the first place I found and ordered a double cheeseburger and a cold beer.  Man, was that ever good!   Revived once again, I headed for Reedsport, just 2 more miles down the road.  I stopped in at the Visitor's Center, and after a few phone calls, found a motel that would let me stay for $30/night.  So I paid for Saturday night and Sunday night and was more than ready to kick back for a day or so.  Aside from the fact that I hadn't showered in 3 days, my feet and that crazy blister will enjoy the rest!

Oregon Dunes

Florence, OR



Quirina and Maxi